Wednesday, April 3, 2019

Palate on Wheels


As the coal driven train chugged into the Kharagpur railway station, on a moist summer morning, four sleepy eyes opened to the vendors’ call outside the window. One particular call, each time, during their annual travel to Kolkata, pushed them up from sleep and urged them to look out eagerly.

“Mihidaana…mihidaanaa..”.

The vendors walking up and down the platform, selling Mihidaanaa is one of the best train travel memories, for them. Packed in neat white packets, the Mihidana would find their way into the two little laps and some packets went inside the bags for the little cousin who waited in Kolkata.

This memory is older than forty years but the taste is as fresh as this morning’s. We remember our travels from the magic they did to our palate. Memory has a taste, memories live in our salivary glands and as I write this note, I can almost taste the sweet mihidana, savored during our travels.

Our annual travel in the Hatia-Howrah express to Kolkata was an overnight one. The train would leave Hatia in the late evening, cross the beautiful Chhota Nagpur Plateau and reach the Big Daddy of Stations, Tata at night.  By early morning, the train would touch West Bengal and the taste buds were lavishly treated. Starting from the Mihidana in Kharagpur, we would be treated to vegetable chop, deem sheddho, jhaal muri even as our heads almost stuck out of the window, marveling at the drifting away green fields, small and big ponds and the slanting palm trees.

In between, we kids enjoyed the long Kolaghat bridge where the mighty river would always be in a swollen state. We would return to our vegetable chops and at times take a break to request mother to help us get rid of the small coal particles which would invariably fly into the curious eyes.

The Kolkata water itself was very different for us. It was but too salty and we, used to the sweet plateau water, had to drink several glasses from the copper pitcher to quench our thirst.
At some point in life, we were introduced to the railway pantry food. During our journeys to New Alipurduar, parents bought food from the pantry. Those days, food was served in steel thalis with built in bowls for the dal, vegetable, fish with a big roasted papad sitting on top of the mound of food. We were so fascinated by this arrangement, which we named Baati Thaalaa, that back home we forced our parents to buy such plates for us. The water was served in big glass bottles, those days.

The suburban local trains once again offered innumerable treats to the palate. I enjoyed the onion-beet root salad more than the accompanying vegetable chop and especially loved the way the paper packet looked when it got all wet with the salad. It was actually fun removing bits of torn wet paper from the salad and chops before popping them into the mouth. The vendor cucumber always came with neatly placed cucumbers in the cane basket. How swiftly the vendors could peel and slice the green juicy cucumbers and smear some salt and red chilli before offering them to the eager hands and watering mouths.

The bus journeys had their own charm when we usually had peanuts with rock salt or an entire bunch of green gram was placed on our laps. What a fun it was to find out the gram pods from the thick bunch, bursting them, popping and feeling the bliss in the mouth, all the tile the bus meandered in the hilly roads.

During college days, I got opportunities to travel to farther lands of the country. I spent about a month in Wardha where the first flavours of Maharastrian cuisine touched my palate and soul. After a long day of hard work during the summer months, the cool dining spaces in the small villages and towns around Warda satisfied our soul. The simple but healthy meal served in large plates with separate bowls for each vegetable and a spoonful of home made mango pickles were topped with the smiling faces of the caring ladies who made it a point that we should not miss our home.

Some of my recent food memories include the small shack in Amarkantak which had about four wooden bunches and served fresh breakfast and lunch, cooked just in your presence. Then there were the small eateries on Ratnagiri and Ganapatipule roadsides serving the best fish meals I ever had.

As life meandered on various landscapes, I picked up such memories and stored them in the palate, in the eyes and in the soul.

My Mantra for these journeys has always been, ‘Eat Local’ in smaller eateries. Those foods not only complement the adventure of the new journey, those are fresh as the eateries are not big enough to store much and keep preparing fresh food.

So enjoy your holidays friends and treat your palate.

Happy Holidays and happy eating.